Getting there
There are trips where you know exactly what you're going to see. And then there are expedition journeys where you set out with a general idea of what might happen - and the Arctic has other plans. Our September 2024 journey aboard Hurtigruten's MS Trollfjord was definitely the latter. We started in Oslo, made our way north to Longyearbyen, and then set off on a journey that would take us from the high Arctic of Svalbard down Norway's rugged coast to Bergen. Along the way there were glaciers, reindeer, walruses, fjords, waterfalls, rainbows, new friends, plenty of great food—and one very unexpected polar bear. But I'm getting ahead of myself.
Getting to the Arctic
Our flights to Oslo on September 11 were thankfully uneventful, which is sometimes all you can ask for after a long travel day. We stayed near the airport that first night, and as it turned out, we got our first glimpse of the Northern Lights right from the hotel. Not a bad way to begin an Arctic adventure. The next day we continued north to Longyearbyen. Longyearbyen is one of those places that immediately tells you that you're somewhere very different. It's remote, rugged and surrounded by an enormous Arctic landscape. One of the first things we noticed was a sign warning about polar bears. That'll get your attention. We checked into Funken Lodge, a wonderful hotel with plenty of Arctic character, and spent the afternoon exploring town. The skies were dark enough to make the colorful buildings and rainbow photographs especially striking. We also stopped at Svalbard Brewery, where we met some local guides and, as luck would have it, another traveler who would be joining us on the same voyage. That evening we headed out to Camp Barentz. The camp is built around a replica of the shelter where Dutch explorer Willem Barentsz and his crew spent the brutal Arctic winter of 1596. Inside the rustic wooden cabin, we gathered around a roaring fire for a hearty meal of traditional reindeer stew, or bidos, along with drinks and homemade dessert. After dinner, our hosts shared stories and photographs from Svalbard, with much of the conversation centered around the animal that tends to capture everyone's imagination here: the polar bear. How they behave. How they are tracked. How people live alongside them. The "King of the Arctic" was already very much on our minds.
And Then There Was the Polar Bear
Before boarding the Trollfjord, we had one more adventure planned. We headed out with Svalbard Adventures on a RIB boat excursion to explore the waters around Longyearbyen, see a glacier and learn more about the area's history. We had been warned not to expect much wildlife. It was September, after all. Apparently, nobody had told the wildlife. We saw a walrus. We saw countless seabirds. We stopped to see what local fishermen had caught for the restaurants that evening. And then, near the glacier, we saw a polar bear. Our first wild, polar bear ever!! There are certain moments on a trip when everyone on the boat suddenly becomes very quiet. This was one of them. We had gone into the excursion knowing that wildlife sightings could be limited. Instead, we were looking at one of the most iconic animals on the planet in its own environment.
That alone would have made the excursion worthwhile.
From there, we headed back to Longyearbyen and walked over to the Trollfjord to begin our journey south. As it turned out, arriving among the last guests had its advantages. We asked about Hurtigruten's upgrade program and ultimately upgraded our room. And then came our first dinner onboard. Let's just say the bar was set pretty high from the beginning.
Aboard the Trollfjord
The Trollfjord is different from the enormous cruise ships most people picture when they hear the word "cruise." At around 135 meters long and carrying roughly 500 passengers, she's small enough to navigate places that much larger ships simply can't. The ship was designed specifically for the Norwegian coast, and the scale feels right for the landscape. Inside, the design has a distinctly Scandinavian feel, with wood, stone and wool woven throughout the public spaces.
One of my favorite areas quickly became the two-story Panorama Lounge at the front of the ship. Huge windows look directly out toward the landscape, making it the perfect place to settle in with a coffee—or something a little stronger—and watch Norway pass by. And there was plenty to watch.
Ny-Ålesund
Our first stop was Ny-Ålesund, one of the world's northernmost permanent research settlements. We walked through town, photographed reindeer, looked at the Arctic flora and spent time learning about the history of the community. At one point, we even found ourselves wading into the water. Back aboard, the crew served local appetizers on deck while sharing stories about the region. Once again, the food was a highlight, with fresh fish, reindeer and Havets Bobler, a Norwegian wine aged deep beneath the sea. It was becoming clear that this wasn't going to be a voyage where the food was an afterthought.
A Day to Simply Watch Norway Go By
One of the things I enjoy most about traveling along a coastline is that not every day needs to be packed with excursions. Our day at sea gave us time to slow down. We enjoyed lunch at Brasserie Árran and dinner at Røst, learned more about Hurtigruten and its history, and met fellow travelers who would become part of the story of the trip. Outside, small coastal communities appeared and disappeared along the shoreline. Other ships passed in the distance. Sometimes the best thing you can do on an expedition is simply stand outside with a camera and watch.
Into the Fjords
At Finnsnes and Torsken, we headed out into the fjords. We transferred to RIB boats and spent time on the water surrounded by spectacular fall scenery. There were seabirds, seals and jellyfish, all set against the changing colors of the Norwegian landscape. The weather was constantly shifting, as it tends to do along the coast. And that became part of the fun. The following day in Harstad was a shorter stop, but we spent plenty of time outside on deck. Rainbows appeared as we sailed through the fjords, creating the kind of scenery that makes you reach for the camera even when you've already taken hundreds of photographs. Especially then.
The Troll's Hat
In Brønnøysund, we headed inland toward Torghatten. The granite mountain is famous for the enormous hole running straight through its center. From a distance, it looks almost like a giant eye carved into the mountain. We hiked up to the opening, joining both locals and other travelers enjoying the trail.
Of course, there's a legend behind it. According to local folklore, a frustrated troll threw a spear at an escaping maiden. The Troll-King threw his hat to intercept it, and when the sun rose, the hat turned to stone—creating the hole in the mountain. The geological explanation is somewhat less dramatic: erosion from ice and waves during the Ice Age. I'll admit, I prefer the troll story. Later, as the Trollfjord sailed past, we got another fantastic view of Torghatten from the ship. It's one of those moments when you realize how different a place can look from the water.
Alesund, Hjørundfjord and the Journey Home
Our final full day took us to Ålesund and Hjørundfjord. There was time for hiking, wandering through a park, seeing waterfalls and exploring the town. Back aboard, we learned more about Hurtigruten's other offerings and ships, met the captain and his team, and eventually gathered for a farewell celebration. After several days together, saying goodbye to people you'd only recently met always feels a little strange. That's one of the things I love about expedition travel. You start the trip as a group of strangers. You end it with stories you share.
One More Adventure
Disembarkation in Bergen didn't quite mean the adventure was over. We rented a car and set off on our own for a waterfall road trip before flying back to Oslo. The roads were surprisingly quiet, making it easy to stop along the way and hike into some of the waterfalls. One of the highlights was Steinsdalsfossen, where you can actually walk behind the rushing water without getting wet.
It was a pretty fitting way to end the trip. We had started in the high Arctic, surrounded by glaciers and polar bears, traveled south through fjords and coastal villages, and ended behind a waterfall in Norway. Not a bad nine days.
Looking Back
The Trollfjord was built for the Norwegian coast and refitted in 2023 for Hurtigruten's Signature Voyages. Around 135 metres, capped at 500 guests on these sailings, and small enough to work into tight water — including the actual Trollfjord she is named for.
It's the accumulation of moments. The first polar bear warning sign in Longyearbyen. A beer at a local brewery. Sitting around a fire listening to stories about surviving an Arctic winter. Being told we probably wouldn't see much wildlife—and then finding a polar bear at the glacier. Watching reindeer wander through Ny-Ålesund. Riding a RIB through a fjord surrounded by fall colors. Standing on deck as a rainbow stretched across the Norwegian landscape. Eating incredibly fresh local food. And meeting people who, a week earlier, had been complete strangers.
That's what expedition travel does particularly well. The itinerary gets you there. But you never really know what the destination is going to give you. And sometimes, the best stories are the ones you couldn't have planned.
