French Polynesia guide

The Marquesas

The Marquesas lie roughly 900 miles northeast of Tahiti and have almost no protective reef. They are steep, wet, dramatic volcanic islands with strong swell, deep valleys and a powerful cultural and archaeological tradition. Reaching them means real sea days, and voyages there are longer than a Society Islands loop.

The bay at Taiohae on Nuku Hiva in the Marquesas, enclosed by steep forested volcanic walls.

A different country, effectively

The Marquesas were settled early in the Polynesian expansion and were never developed for tourism the way the Society Islands were. There are few lagoons, little sheltered water, and no ring of resorts. The sea meets cliffs directly, and the interiors are cut by deep, green, humid valleys.

The result is scenery of a different order from the postcard lagoons further south — grander, wilder, and considerably less comfortable. It is also where a large part of Polynesia's carving, tattoo and archaeological heritage is concentrated.

Getting there

There is no short way. The crossing from the Society Islands or the Tuamotus is open ocean, and voyages that include the Marquesas need the length to absorb it. Anyone prone to seasickness should think hard about the passage before booking.

Landings can be wet, since there is often no sheltered anchorage and swell runs straight into the bays. Ships used to working here handle it routinely, but it is not the calm lagoon tendering of the Societies.

What you see there

Taiohae on Nuku Hiva, enclosed by steep forested walls, is the usual first sight. Beyond that: archaeological sites with tiki and ceremonial platforms, working villages, horses on the tracks, and valleys that feel far older and less visited than anywhere in the Societies.

Cultural encounters here are genuine rather than staged for cruise arrivals, which is both the appeal and the reason to behave as a guest. Our guide to Polynesian culture and heritage covers that more fully.

Who should go

Travelers who have already seen the Society Islands, who are interested in archaeology and living culture as much as in reefs, and who are comfortable with sea days and wet landings.

It is not the right first visit to French Polynesia for most people, and we will say so. Start with the Societies and the Tuamotus; come back for the Marquesas.

Common questions

Is there snorkelling in the Marquesas?

Some, but it is not the reason to go. With little protective reef, the water is often less clear and less sheltered than in the Societies or the atolls. The Marquesas are a landscape, culture and archaeology destination.

How long does a Marquesas voyage take?

Longer than a Society Islands week — the crossing alone accounts for several days. Itineraries that include the Marquesas properly need a couple of weeks, and we plan the flights accordingly.

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Written by your expedition advisors

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Chris Commisso · Expedition Expert

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Erika Commisso · Travel Experience Architect

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Chris and Erika have personally sailed 18 expedition ships and explored eight expedition regions.

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