Sunset over a Tikehau lagoon with thatched overwater bungalows and coconut palms silhouetted against an orange sky.

Two Weeks in French Polynesia: The Paul Gauguin and Tikehau

6–20 November 2025Cruise and landFrench PolynesiaTahiti, Huahine, Taha'a, Bora Bora, Moorea, then a land stay on Tikehau

By Chris Commisso

A week aboard the Paul Gauguin through the Society Islands followed by six nights on Tikehau in the Tuamotus. Manta rays at a cleaning station, the most pristine coral we have seen anywhere, and a boat followed by hundreds of dolphins. Also a great deal of rain.

Trip details

Operator
Paul Gauguin Cruises
Region
French Polynesia
Route
Tahiti, Huahine, Taha'a, Bora Bora, Moorea, then a land stay on Tikehau
Dates
6–20 November 2025

Tahiti, before the ship

We arrived in Tahiti and stayed at the InterContinental, walked the property to see the renovations, and had dinner on site.

The next day we took the Crossing Over Tahiti Island Safari — a full-day 4x4 trek in open-air vehicles that cuts right through the mountainous interior of Tahiti Nui from one coast to the other. It rained hard and the ride was bumpy most of the way, which made for better photographs than a dry day would have. Blue-eyed eels, and rain forming small rivers down through the mountains.

Passengers in an open-air 4x4 photographing a waterfall in the mountainous interior of Tahiti Nui, cloud hanging on the ridges.

Embarkation, Papeete

We walked around downtown Papeete before boarding the Paul Gauguin for an evening departure, explored the ship, sat through the briefing, and had our first dinner aboard.

Huahine

A combined jeep and boat exploration of the island. Snorkelling, a pearl farm, an archaeological site, feeding the blue-eyed eels, the Belvedere viewpoint, and photographs of the Paul Gauguin from the mountain top. A good way to see an island in a day.

Chris and Erika Commisso at a viewpoint on Huahine, with steep green mountains and the lagoon behind them.

Taha'a and Motu Mahana

The line's private motu. We headed over at quarter past ten and spent the day snorkelling, with a barbecue of burgers, hot dogs, chicken, steak, salads and cookies, and every drink you could want. Everyone drinking out of coconuts in the sun.

The snorkelling was better than expected — a natural drift between the islands, with coral and fish.

Chris Commisso standing in clear shallow water at Motu Mahana, holding a fresh coconut, with a palm-lined shore behind.

Bora Bora

Snorkelling with manta rays, then coral gardens, sharks and stingrays. Our guide Fabio did a good job of maximising the time at each site. Cheese night aboard that evening was excellent.

A manta ray gliding low over a pale sand bottom in the lagoon at Bora Bora.

The second day in Bora Bora it rained heavily from morning to night, so we stayed on the ship, ordered room service, and treated it as a rest day.

Moorea

Whale watching was cancelled because of high waves. Polynesian night aboard made up for it — good food and good fun.

The following day we snorkelled two sites, both with poor visibility and too many people, but we saw eagle rays and a turtle. Plenty of dolphins in the morning.

Tikehau

Off the ship and onto the atoll for the second half of the trip.

We took single kayaks around to the motu and past the resort. We toured the property to see the upgrades since our last visit — the viewing platforms and the walkway out to the outer edge of the atoll are both new. We are already looking forward to the new outdoor restaurant.

View forward from a kayak across clear shallow water at Tikehau, snorkel fins resting on the bow, a palm-covered motu ahead.

A morning snorkel, then a downpour, which we watched from a bar with a drink in hand. Another day we went out to photograph the waves, Erika had a massage, and I went fishing with our group and caught one small rockfish. Wavy and raining, but a good way to see the atoll from the water.

Bird island was the highlight of the land stay and we would recommend it to anyone visiting. Black and brown noddies, red-footed boobies, white terns, and enormous brown land crabs. We kayaked and snorkelled around the resort and hiked out to the platforms at night to photograph the stars. It is a genuinely peaceful place.

An adult red-footed booby and a white chick perched together in a low tree on Bird Island, Tikehau.

The last full day

The morning snorkel tour was cancelled, so we snorkelled at the site instead, and it rained hard again.

Then we went out in the afternoon, and it was extraordinary. Manta rays at a cleaning station. Coral gardens that were the most pristine we have seen anywhere. Then the outside of the motu, where only three of us were willing to get in because it was rougher — sharks, and more sharks, and a barracuda large enough to convince us it was time to stop.

A manta ray at a cleaning station above coral reef in the lagoon at Tikehau.

On the way back we ran into a dolphin invasion. Hundreds of them, following the boat.

Eight spinner dolphins swimming underwater alongside a boat in clear blue water off Tikehau.

Home

Our last day was a washout, so we skipped the snorkel. Erika spent it on crafts — headdresses, baskets, roses, dress tying and dancing. We missed the afternoon canoeing because we had to leave. Dinner at the airport, then flights home.

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